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As if to prove that no sector of class-conscious British society is immune from the bohemian world of the underground movement, fine dining is now on the menu at secret locations somewhere near you.
If you're not familiar with the concept, underground restaurants (or 'supperclubs') are secret dinner events hosted by a (whimsically anonymous) underground chef in their own home or another domestic venue of some sort. Dinners are announced a few weeks before they happen, and attendees purchase tickets online or request invitations by email, Facebook or other web 2.0 flavoured means. The result is a social buffet of food-loving strangers to meet and an array of top-notch nosh to enjoy while you're at it.
London folk have been enjoying this new phenomenon for about a year now, with underground chefs like MsMarmiteLover (a telling alias) featured on the BBC and in The Guardian. But over the summer underground supperclubs started to spring up elsewhere. To show how the cutting edge needn't be restricted to the chopping boards of the country's capital, we've had a chin-wag with underground restaurateurs from all over the rest of the country. All of them are fairly new members of the clandestine dinner-party world, but they all share the same buckets of enthusiasm evident in those who began the craze.
Hidden away deep in a Welsh valley lies the 'Moel Faban' secret supperclub. Organiser and chef Denise explained that after training as a cook at Westminster College (which has educated the culinary likes of Jamie Oliver) and then a 15-year career in academia, she decided to bring the underground restaurant trend to the Welsh.
"I don't have the biggest, most beautiful house, but I have a small, cosy 150-year-old cottage, with an enormous Inglenook fireplace (and roaring fire in the winter). We launched the Moel Faban secret supper club on October 3rd. The name is a clue to where we're based for those who know their mountains. We have a very reasonable, fixed-price menu; £25 a head for five courses including a welcome cocktail and nibbles followed by coffee with cheese and biscuits. Every month sees a new menu, adapting my cooking to what is in season and available.
"I guess my ethos is that everything on the menu is sourced locally (within a 30-mile radius of my home) and avoiding the supermarket as much as possible. My food is simple, well cooked, country fare. I try and display flyers and leaflets indicating where the food on the menu has come from, but other than this I guess the format is similar to other secret supper clubs."
Although her next Saturday event is already fully-booked, Denise says that it will take some time before the locals fully embrace her new concept, "I think ideas like this take longer to take off around here. We have a widely dispersed population, promotion needs to be bilingual, and people do not have as much disposable income as in London. On the other hand, we have very few really good places to eat round here so I'm hoping this will draw diners in."
This tasty morsel was whipped up by the folk at Loco Dining in Brighton.Back in England, and further south than London, Brighton is home to the Loco Dining Club which embraces the true underground experience with full-bodied fervour. Organiser Lee explains that despite the lack of a culinary background, interest in the movement soon developed into plans to start an underground restaurant of their very own: "I had literally zero experience in the restaurant industry before this, but through my work as an underground club-night promoter, I've built up a fair amount of experience in putting on non-mainstream events. I'm discovering that there are lots of parallels between underground restaurants and underground parties."
The lack of previous experience hasn't stunted their attention to detail, though. Lee commented, "We relentlessly plan everything, right down to the minute in some cases, so at least if timings or other things do go wrong, we know what to do to get back on track without anyone really noticing. We also endlessly discuss, refine and practice the dishes before we put them on the menu. We don't take ourselves too seriously, I hope, but we're determined to provide a dining experience that's impressive for our guests."
If any trend is going to catch on in a significant way, quality has to be combined with hefty helpings of amusement.
One of the distinctive features of the Loco club is that every event is held in a different venue. We asked Lee about this, but he explained that they wanted to keep that side of their operations as hush-hush as possible.
"We don't want to give too much away about this aspect because that's half the fun. The desire to hold Loco in a variety of spaces probably comes from our background as underground music fans - the thrill of an event in a space you don't expect, the feeling that you're involved in something new and unknown. But we're looking at all sorts of spaces, from ultra-modern private loft apartments to falling down disused warehouses, from quirky cafes in decrepit seaside villages to rambling country piles."
Catering for the Bristol masses in underground fashion is similarly new secret chef Louise at The Secret Service Supper Club. We didn't ask about connections to MI6, but on hearing that the SSSC has had a spate of success since opening, we did want to know why she thought the underground dining format is so mobile.
"I think there's scope for it everywhere because we're in a recession but people still want to go out and do something different without going to a restaurant and having a bog-standard evening. Home restaurants tend to focus on turning out the best food that they can and are less worried about profit - it's a fun thing to do."
Stuff Happening Now also got in touch with a new, Walsall-based underground restauranteur who is planning to have their first event later this month. Planning to hold the dinner in the front room of a family home, 'Herbert Pocket' explained they want the evening to be quirky and informal:
"We have a little dinner table in the loft which can sit six people around it comfortably, and eight with a little bit of a squeeze. So I think we'll start off with a sitting for eight, to see how it goes. And it will be eight people I know, but who don't necessarily know each other.
"I'm hoping I can bring it all in for around £10 per head. I've got an old copy of Great Expectations and I'm going to stick the pages together and then hollow it out so that there is a space in the middle for the guests to leave their donation at the end of the evening (assuming they think it's worth paying for!)."
MsMarmiteLover, who was reverently mentioned by most of the inspired restaurateurs we spoke to, added her own enthusiasm for underground restaurants cropping up outside the big smoke:
"I think supperclubs in other cities will do well. It might be harder in the countryside as they have less of a potential 'audience'. Especially in winter. In the summer, if it's a tourist destination they might do well. But if the host has a very unusual or beautiful location and or is a particularly good cook, I think people are willing to travel to them wherever they are.
"I'm always giving advice to newbies on how to start up. I'm writing a book, a guide for them. I've had to learn the hard way, I had no one to ask advice from, being the first, along with Horton Jupiter."
MsMarmiteLover has also started a group for secret chefs who are new to the trade and want to get in on the excitement of underground dining, so the potential for the expansion of this phenomenon is certainly being carefully fostered.
Are you starting a new underground restaurant? Why not drop us a line. We might even turn up and do a review!

Perhaps this how Nigella gets all her 'friends' to come round to her house for her programmes?